Saturday 11 April 2009

My Journey to China

2/4/09

To be at Liverpool John Lennon airport in plenty of time meant a 5am start. Michael and Hannah came to the train station with me to say goodbye and Kat actually came up to the airport with me. She said it was strange being at the airport but not flying anywhere. We had hot chocolate in a cafe called Go! I had toast and jam, and she had a croissant.

On the plane I loved rising above the cloud layer. Just above the clouds it looks like a vast plain of cotton wool. It was sunny and felt so calm up there. When we climbed higher I couldn't see cars anymore, just blocks of colour - green, rust and grey. I tried to guess where we were passing over but couldn't. It could have been anywhere! It was exhilerating when the plane tipped or turned, the whole experience made me dizzy!

My "meal" on the plane to Amsterdam was a packet of crackers and a chocolate biscuit. We landed and got the bus to the gate. I saw the man get my suitcase off the plane. I felt like waving to it, as if it was my only friend!

When I got to the departures board I discovered my flight to Shanghai was one of only a few delayed, typical! I had to wait in Amsterdam airport 1 hour 45 minutes longer than I would have done, giving me 5 hours to kill. I surprised myself by not panicking. I found internet access and emailed the hostel in Shanghai who had agreed to collect me from the airport.

I filled my time by first finding my gate then I had lunch at a Japanese noodle bar. I ate ramen noodles with spring onion, sweetcorn, mangetout, spinach and half a boiled egg in miso soup. It was pretty good, but a little greasy. It cost me 11 euros, which seemed a lot!

For the rest of the time I sat in an area of comfortable seats overlooking the runways outside and began drafting my first blog entry.

2/4/09 - 3/4/09

The long haul flight onwards to Shanghai was a bit of an ordeal simply because I got bored of sitting in the same place for so long, although I had a window seat. The service was great thought, we got drinks, snacks and meals regularly. I got talking to the woman sitting next to me. She lives just outside Shanghai and her name is Wendy Ma. She studied economic law at university and was reading the Financial Times. We exchanged email addresses and I hope we can meet up again before I leave China.

Upon finally landing I checked out in the foreigners queue. All the airport staff looked smart, neat and official in their uniforms. I was so happy to find my suitcase had made it, and even better was the gorgeous chocolate spaniel sniffer dog the man had. He kept walking on the conveyer belt like he was exercising! He carefully sniffed each bag and barked and scratched at the ones that smelt "interesting". Michael would have loved to see him!

Then I went to find the pick up driver from the hostel. He had a sign with my name on, but spoke no English whatsoever so it was a bit quiet inside the car apart from the short sharp mobile phone conversations he held every so often. Drivers in Shanghai seem crazy! They change lanes without ntoice and beep their horns loudly at apparently anything. Thankfully a girls at the hostel who spoke good English met us as we arrived. I checked in then went to find my room. It contained two bunk beds, two cupboards, a desk and a stool. It wasnt big enough for anything else, but it was fine for its purpose. Mine was the bottom bunk and the bedding was crisp and clean. I went for a shower then went straight to bed, feeling exhausted as I had onyl slept briefly on the plane.

There was a knock on the door and two of the hostel had come to tell me that the driver had brought me to the wrong hostel (There are two which are linked and have very similar names - Le Tour Shanghai and Le Tour Traveller's Rest). The man also explained that my room here was more expensive than the room I had paid for because this hostel was closer to Shanghai city centre. However, I asked him if I owed him any money and he said it was okay.

Later, after a nap, I used the internet and then rang Michael and my mum. Hearing Michael's voice made me miss him so much I could hardly speak for the lump in my throat and I vowed not to ring him again.

In the common room I met other travellers and we played pool and ping pong. An older guy came and started teaching me how to play ping pong (because I'm hopeless). I reckon by the time I get back to Eton for the summer school, I'll be able to put up a fair fight to Fritz and Barny!

I joined some of them for dinner in a dingy little place on a corner just down the alleyway from the hostel. In the alleyway a skip had been tipped over and there was rubbish everywhere. The food was good, but the hygiene wasnt. The people I was with said I could eat with chopsticks that had touched the table because it wasnt clean. I had a bowl of noodles with cubes of chicken, chilli flakes and cashew nuts. It was delicious but I found it practically impossible to eat with chopsticks. Still, I entertained everyone immensely by trying. I ate about half of it, then gave up because everyone else had finished theirs. On the television Ronnie O'Sullivan and John Higgins were playing a match of snooker in the quarter finals somewhere in China. It was bizarre to see it with Chinese narrative. Then we went back to hostel and went to bed.

4/4/09

I woke up on Saturday and had a message from Candy, a girl from the summer school course, asking if I was awake. It was 1pm in China, but only 6 am by my body clock! I got up and dressed and found my way to Urbn, a hotel close to her house. On the outside it was gorgeous, on a bigger budget I'd love to stay there! It was great to see Candy's familier face, although she's changed her hair back to black. We went on the underground from Jing An Temple two stops to People's Square. The underground was cleaner and newer than London's and not that busy.

In a big shopping centre called City Plaza we went to take photos in a booth where you can chose backgrounds. Then, after taking your pictures, you can put writing and pictures on them before they are printed. It was a lot of fun because you could really customise them! Then we went for lunch in the food court, a place called Yonghe King Cafe. I paid 19 yuan (£1.90) for a big bowl of meat, potato, cauliflower, brocolli and a curry sauce. Its so cheap here! For some reason they gave me a plastic glove with my meal...?

Then we had a cold drink a bit like Slush Puppy, but not really. It was called Happy Lemon (cute name) and had bits in. Then we headed to the basement of the shopping centre where there was an indoor market and D-Mall, row after row of small but perfectly formed shops selling mostly clothes. Some of them were really specific like the Snoopy themed underwear shop. In the market it was easy to barter for items. I got some real bargains on accessories. None of the clothes or shoes fitted me - too small for my non-Chinese, definitely bigger than a teenager body.

Then Candy told me her mum has rang to remind her it was a traditional holiday (Tomb Sweeping Day) when it is believed by some that females should not be outside the home in the afternoon. We took the tube back the way we had come. In the station we saw a man bowing up and down so close to the ground he looked like he might bang his head. Next to him an elderly lady was lying flat out on the floor, apparently asleep. A bowl sat next to them. Candy said he was begging for money because his mother was ill. It is common practice for people to beg with the afflicted present as "evidence". Some even maim their children to get more money.

Later I heard from Oliver, who had arrived back from Australia that morning. We agreed to meet at the hostel the next day at midday.

5/4/09

I slept terribly that night. I felt tired but it wasnt enough to sleep. I overslept and a member of the hostel staff woke me up to say that Oliver was waiting in the foyer! I packed my stuff and checked out and we went in a taxi to Oliver's apartment which is incredibly high up on the 29th floor (out of 30). It has a fantastic view, especially from the bedrooms, as you can see the Shanghai skyline the other side of the Huangpu River. It is a gorgeous apartment; my favourite bits are the grand piano and the tiny square tea room. The whole place smells faintly of cigarette smoke and there is no food in the fridge. Oliver eats out at restaurants rather a lot.

When you come in from outside it is a Chinese custom to immediately remove your shoes and put on soft slippers, sometimes made of straw, which are really comfortable. After I had settled my stuff, we went for a walk around the bottom of the tallest buildings in Shanghai.

Later we went out to dinner (tea) with Henry an ex Eton boy who did work at Oxford International College in Shanghai where Oliver is head, the head of English there, Peter, and his wife, who is also Oliver's PA.

I felt foolish and inadequate throughout the meal because I couldn't use the chopsticks properly, and couldn't contribute to any of the conversation topics so I was just quiet. Afterwards we went to play pool at a dark bar which was full of young people and the dj was playing western RnB music I recognised, so I felt a lot more at ease there. I would have felt even more relaxed if I was with my friends from Stoke because I love to banter when playing pool, and I didn't feel like I could with two strangers, one of which employed me over the summer!

Eventually we left and went home. I had tears in my eyes and a huge lump in my throat. I slept only a hour maximum, at around 5am local time. The rest of the time I was trying to go to sleep but my brain was working overtime and I just cried when I thought about home.

6/4/09

Despite being a Sunday, Oxford International College's new term was starting. I got up at 7:15 am, showered and we left for the college. It is situated on the 7th floor of a building on one of SISU's campuses (Shanghai International Studies University). It is tiny, taking up only one floor of a building, and having only 30 students and 5 staff members. It was not at all what I imagined it would be like, which was something similar to my sixth form college (1000s of students).

In the morning I observed an English lesson led by Peter and attended by just one student. Later I was introduced to the rest of the staff, and the new member. Of course, he was another ex Etonian and we "team taught" a class in the afternoon. Well actually he took charge because he has ample experience with teaching and I let him, because I lack confidence because of my teaching experience. When he handed over to me I bottled out and took a back seat. It felt like a huge hot bright spotlight was on me at the front of the class and I was uncomfortable there, feeling out of my depth.

Afterwards I talked to Peter, who isnt actually as scary as he first seemed, about how difficult it is to be a trainee teacher. That afternoon, Oliver asked two of the girls to take me out for dinner after school finished at 5. We went to Mama Barbelo's Italian restaurant, where the food was about as authentically Italian as I am! My spagetti bolognese was tasty enough though, and the girls had carbonara.

7/4/09

Monday

I made my own way around Shanghai and bought some beautiful green and pink handmade slippers.

8/4/09

Tuesday

Found my way to Yu Yuan garden (Yuan means garden) in Old Town Shanghai. It was very busy and there were a great many sellers hassling tourists and I felt really stressed out there, although the buildings were breathtaking. In complete contrast, and completely by fluke I stumbled into a beautiful park full of tall bamboo forming narrow pathways. It was so instantly peaceful there.

10/4/09

Thursday

Ellen's office

Met Ellen at her office (British Education) in West Shanghai, one tube stop from where my hostel was

Flight to Beijing in evening.

Watched Hancock on individual screens.

Sick on plane.

Sickness and diarrhoea.

Went to United Family international hospital where I was seen by an American doctor, who told me I had a virus and I was put on a drip for an hour and half, which gave me 2 litres (4 bags) of fluid intended to re-hydrate me.

Nightmare with payment.

Owed money to James, one of Ellen's collegues

10/4/09

Friday

Had to find a branch of Bank of China, tried to get money out of ATM but wouldnt let me. Rang Natwest who said my card had been locked, but he was able to unlock it for me, and had to wait just 15 minutes before I could get money out of the machine. Rang Ellen, who spoke to a lady at the bank, who wrote down the address of Beijing No. 4 high school down for me.

Took taxi to Beijing No.4 High school

Surprised students.

Beyond took me to BeiHai park

Later had dinner with girls - tried roast duck with spring onion and cucumber in thin crepes.

11/4/09

Saturday

Visited Tian'An Men Square and The Forbidden City. Again, it was very busy and overly touristy but a fantastic thing to see nonetheless.

12/4/09

Sunday

Visited the Beijing Olympic Stadium, a nearby funfair and an Ethnic Minorities Park, which incorporated beautiful landscaping with a history lesson. There are 56 different minorites from which Chinese people are descended. The majority are Han.

13/4/09

Monday

Visited and climbed part of the Great Wall at Badaling with Jane and Yue, two people I was very fortunate to meet.

14/4/09

Tuesday

Onward to Xi'an

15/4/09

Wednesday

Met up with Jane again in Shuyuan Hostel in Xi'an. There were many animals and birds there including a big lazy dog, 3 cats and a kitten who was only weeks old! On the first day, Jane and I went shopping in the Muslim quarter where there were birds in tiny cages everywhere. We took a ride on a rickshaw pulled by motorbike.

16/4/09

Thursday

Today Jane and I visted the tomb of the Dragon Emporer and the Terracotta Army. That night in Park Qin, the hostel bar, I met a guy from Liverpool and we were approached by a local lady who proceeded to buy us drinks all night. We had a good (if a little random) time with her and her family.

17/4/09

Friday

Onwards to Chengdu

18/4/09

Saturday

Today I met up with Mia and we went to a Panda reserve in Chengdu.

19/4/09

Sunday

The Giant Buddha at Leshan

20/4/09

Monday

Return to Shanghai

21/4/09

Tuesday

Today I met Josephine! She has grown up so much! We went shopping together. It was so sweet :)

22/4/09

Wednesday

Today I walked to pick the jacket I had ordered to be made for me up from near Yu Yuan Gardens.
I also helped out at Oxford International College doing some informal interviews with the students to help them practice speaking English. It was great to get to know them

23/4/09

Thursday

Also spent at Oxford International College

24/4/09

Friday

Came home to England.